By: Anne Jorgenson
Bumping into the hand rest next to me, the man sitting in the aisle of the bus glances over before turning his attention back forward. I turn back to the window, attempting to watch the sun set over the mountains around me as a bead of sweat drips down my calf.
In the Rif mountains of northern Morocco lies a little blue town named Chefchaouen, Chaouen to locals. You’ve likely seen photos somewhere in your Instagram feed, the vibrant blue walls (and easily acquired hash) make the city a popular tourist attraction.
No one can definitively say why the city’s medina became as blue as it did. Some say the sky blue was chosen as a reminder to lead a spiritual life, with the theory that the color of the heavens would serve that purpose. Others say it was the Jewish population in the town, painting their doors blue to differentiate themselves from Muslim houses, while others claim they were trying to hide from Hitler as the color intensified in the 1930s. Some say the color keeps mosquitos away, some say it keeps the area cool. Regardless of the origin, the long term effect creates a stunning aesthetic that draws in and captivates visitors from across the globe.
The only way to Chefchaouen is by bus. My group went from Tangier, a crowded and bumpy three hour bus ride that leads you through the winding roads of the mountains. CTM is the premier bus line in Morocco, but local bus stations have smaller lines going most anywhere in the country almost every hour.
Something worth noting about buses in Morocco is drivers will sell more tickets than there are seats in the bus. This means if you’re not at least a few minutes early to the bus, there’s a good chance you’ll be left in the aisle for the duration of your ride, and when the bus doesn’t have air-conditioning (and a fair amount don’t), that might make for an uncomfortable few hours. Our group caught one such bus, and for 40 Dh (roughly $4.25 USD), we took a crowded 5:45pm bus with Nejme Chamal.
We stayed in Hotel Souika, a small traveler’s hotel (read: hostel) situated about a mile from the bus station in the lower part of the city’s medina.
For 40 Dh a night you can sleep on a few sleeping pads on the roof, or spring for a bed inside for 70 Dh (roughly $7.50 USD). I opted for the bed – the roof was full, but had there been space, I would’ve had a hell of a decision. Staff there was friendly and accommodating, giving directions to areas in the city some travelers wanted to take pictures in, helping others organize bus trips to Akchour, and for a small fee someone washing whatever laundry you may have (five of us washed two days worth of clothes for a total of 50 Dh).
While the hostel itself was nice, it’s worth noting that walking through the medina at twilight gave us some uncomfortable experiences. When you’re obviously a tourist, people are more likely to approach you, and even in a group of seven – six of us foreign women – a few men stroked our arms as we passed by, but I’ll write more on that in another post.
Aside from that, the town was a sleepy, peaceful town. Staying there, one could easily walk the whole town in a day, from the top of the medina to the stream on the outskirts of the city. For me, the hiking around the town was the exciting part. Akchour, a beautiful trail populated with waterfalls and restaurants is approximately an hour away, and there are numerous trails right outside the town itself.
If you’re in Morocco, Chefchaouen is absolutely worth the trip there. Walking the streets in the early morning light, the serene beauty of the area with the quiet soundtrack of the shopkeepers opening kiosks is a soothing change from the bigger cities in Morocco.
The thing I’m most disappointed about missing out on was hiking up to the Spanish Mosque at sunset. The Mosque is located on a hill overlooking the city with a view almost directly west. What interests you guys the most about this beautiful place?
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